Chives in Zone 3B — Midwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Midwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our fertile soil. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers are a treat for the eyes and attract pollinators!

We Midwest gardeners know our weather can be a bit unpredictable, with variable springs and the occasional summer heat spell. But don't worry, with a little planning, you can enjoy a continuous harvest of chives throughout our 118-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not strictly necessary in the Midwest. If you want an earlier harvest, sow seeds indoors from early to late March, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays filled with a good quality seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light—a sunny windowsill or grow lights work well. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off, so set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from early May through early June, once the risk of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Be prepared for some temperature swings in early May. Water them in well after transplanting. If you have access to established chives, dividing existing clumps is a quicker way to get a harvest than starting from seed.

Direct sowing is a perfectly viable option for chives in the Midwest, especially if you’re not in a hurry. Sow seeds directly into the garden from late April through mid June. Chives need soil temperatures of at least 60°F to germinate well.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you might not get a substantial harvest in the first year. Divisions or starts will give you quicker results.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive in the Midwest. While they're more tolerant of moisture than some herbs, they're not drought-tolerant.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you may only need to water once a week, if at all. In the heat of summer, especially during those summer heat spells, you'll likely need to water two or three times a week. The "finger test" is your friend: stick your finger into the soil about two inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid getting the leaves wet, which can encourage fungal diseases in our moderate-to-humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil is well-draining. A layer of mulch around the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid July through late September, about 80 days after sowing. The best time to harvest is when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Chives are a cut-and-come-again herb, so you can harvest them continuously throughout the growing season.

As the first frost approaches in mid- September, give your chives one last good haircut. You can freeze the chopped chives for use during the winter months, or even pot up a clump and bring it indoors to enjoy fresh chives all winter long.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Midwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small, white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulb.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the roots and bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a soft, mushy bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, which creates a favorable environment for fungal pathogens. Our clay soil can exacerbate this issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure the soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds if necessary.

Midwest Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-hot summers and moderate-to-humid conditions can create a favorable environment for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Be sure to provide adequate spacing for good air circulation, and avoid overhead watering whenever possible.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in the Midwest garden. They deter pests and improve the health of nearby plants.

Carrots benefit from chives because the chives repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes also love chives, as they help to deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from having chives planted nearby, as they help to prevent black spot. Grapes also appreciate the pest-repelling qualities of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.