Chives in Zone 4B — Mountain West

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our short season. Plus, the purple blossoms are a magnet for pollinators, adding beauty and biodiversity to your garden.

Our high altitude, intense sun, and cool nights present unique challenges, but chives are surprisingly resilient. With a little planning and attention to timing, you can enjoy fresh chives throughout our 128-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not always necessary. If you're eager for an early harvest or want to ensure a strong start, sow seeds indoors from late February through mid March, about eight weeks before our last expected frost.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders, especially with our late spring. Water gently from the bottom to prevent damping off and encourage strong root growth. Remember, our spring weather can be unpredictable, so starting indoors provides a buffer against late frosts.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from early to late May, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Be prepared for possible late-season snow or hail, which can damage young plants. If inclement weather is expected, provide temporary protection. Buying established starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving chive patch.

Direct sowing chives is a simple method, but be patient, as they can be slow to establish from seed. Sow seeds mid April through mid June, after the soil has warmed up.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and amending with compost. Chives prefer well-drained soil. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Thin seedlings to 8-12 inches apart once they emerge. Keep in mind that divisions or starts will give you a harvest much faster than starting from seed.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our dry Mountain climate. While they're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, our low humidity means they can dry out quickly.

During the peak of summer, when temperatures reach around 85°F, check the soil moisture regularly. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in some situations.

Signs of underwatering include wilted or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so ensure the soil is well-draining. A layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is crucial in our intense sun and fluctuating temperatures.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early July through late September, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Harvest regularly throughout the season to keep the plants producing.

As our first frost approaches around mid- September, give your chives a final trim. You can either dry the harvested leaves for later use or let the plants die back naturally. They'll return in the spring, ready for another season. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in our region:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots around the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. While our humidity is low, moisture on leaves from watering or rain can create favorable conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and yellowing, wilting leaves.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, which can happen even in our dry climate if you're not careful with irrigation.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost and other organic matter.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat and low humidity can make chives susceptible to drying out quickly if not watered properly. The intense UV radiation can also stress plants, making them more vulnerable to pests and diseases. Consistent watering and providing some afternoon shade can help mitigate these issues.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in a Mountain West garden:

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop. Plant them near each other.
• Tomatoes: Chives deter aphids and other pests that can damage tomatoes. Plus, they improve the flavor of tomatoes.
• Roses: Chives help prevent black spot and other fungal diseases in roses. They also deter aphids, which are common rose pests.
• Grapes: Chives deter Japanese beetles, which can be a problem for grapevines.

Avoid planting chives near:

• Beans-green and Peas: Chives can inhibit the growth of beans and peas, so keep them separated in your garden.