Chives in Zone 5A — Northeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Northeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from summer salads to baked potatoes, and they’re so easy to grow. Plus, their pretty purple flowers attract pollinators to your garden, helping your other veggies thrive during our short growing season.

We do have to contend with our unpredictable springs and early frosts here in Zone 5A, but with a little planning, you can enjoy fresh chives from late June well into the fall. Our 153-day growing season is plenty of time to get a few good harvests.

Starting chives indoors is certainly an option, especially if you're aiming for an extra-early harvest. You can sow seeds indoors from mid-February through early March, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This head start can be helpful to get a jump on our short growing season.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil consistently moist without overdoing it. Given our late springs, starting indoors protects your seedlings from any unexpected frosts.

Transplanting chives outdoors should happen from mid-April through mid-May, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before you move them permanently, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. While the weather can be unpredictable at this time of year, established chive plants are pretty hardy. Buying starts from a local nursery or dividing established clumps is a faster way to get a mature plant.

Direct sowing chives is definitely doable, especially if you're not in a rush. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early April through late June. The soil needs to be workable and ideally around 60°F for best germination.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks – we know all about rocky New England soil! Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep and 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so it might take a while to see significant growth. For quicker results, consider divisions or starts.

Chives need consistent moisture to thrive, but they don't like to be waterlogged. Aim for moderate watering throughout the growing season, especially during the warmer months. They're actually more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, which is good since we get fairly even rainfall in the Northeast.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you might only need to water once a week if the soil isn't naturally moist. In the heat of summer, increase watering to two or three times a week, depending on rainfall. Always check the soil moisture before watering. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. As a general guideline, aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead to help prevent fungal diseases, especially with our moderate-to-humid summers. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially bulb rot. Mulching around your chives with straw or compost helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cool.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from late June through early October, depending on when you planted them. Chives are ready to harvest when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. Use scissors to cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

This encourages new growth, so don't be afraid to harvest regularly! The more you cut, the more they'll grow. Snip off only what you need for cooking to keep the plant producing throughout the summer.

As the first frost approaches in early October, don’t worry too much. Established chive plants are quite hardy and can often withstand a light frost. You can continue harvesting until the ground freezes solid. Every three years, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in your Zone 5A garden:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth, especially in young plants. You might find small white maggots near the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The larvae then burrow into the bulbs and roots. This is more common during wet springs and early summers in the Northeast.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate your crops each year. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing and wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overly wet soil and poor drainage. Common during periods of heavy rainfall, which we can get even in our "even" rainfall pattern in the Northeast.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds if your soil is prone to waterlogging.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat and moderate-to-humid humidity, combined with even rainfall, can create conditions that favor fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation and careful watering practices are key to keeping your chives healthy.

Chives are great companions for several plants in your Northeast garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also help repel aphids and Japanese beetles from tomatoes and roses. Plus, they're said to improve the flavor and vigor of grape vines.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. The allium compounds in chives can suppress the growth of legumes.