Chives in Zone 6A — Great Plains

Chives are a must-have in any Great Plains garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow. Plus, nothing beats the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs from your own backyard, especially when they thrive in our fertile prairie soil.

We know our region throws some extreme weather your way, from spring temperature swings to the potential for hail. But with a little attention to timing and placement, you can enjoy a steady supply of chives throughout our 188-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors is an option, especially if you're eager to get a head start. Begin in late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. This can be a good idea if you're further north in the Plains and have a slightly shorter growing season.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders. Don't forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off.

Transplant your chives outdoors in early to late April, once the risk of a hard freeze has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Plains' wind and temperature fluctuations.

Space your chives plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Honestly, buying established chive starts or dividing an existing clump is often faster and easier than starting from seed.

You can direct sow chives seeds outdoors from mid March through mid July. Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist.

Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed. If you're impatient, divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest. But if you're willing to wait, direct sowing is a perfectly viable option.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our Plains climate. They're actually more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs, but still need well-draining soil. During our hot summer months, you'll want to pay close attention to their moisture levels.

A good rule of thumb is to check the soil moisture about 2 inches deep – the "finger test." If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our low-to-moderate humidity.

If the leaves start to droop or turn yellow, you might be overwatering. If they look wilted and dry, they need more water. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is helpful with our extreme temperature swings.

You can expect your first harvest of chives starting in early June and continuing through late October. The leaves are ready to harvest when they're at least 6 inches tall. Look for a healthy green color and strong growth.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing all season long. Divide the clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

As the first frost approaches in mid- October, you can either cut back the entire plant and let it overwinter, or pot up a clump to bring indoors for fresh chives throughout the winter.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Great Plains:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the roots and bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover plants with row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Use nematodes in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a mushy, foul-smelling bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive, leading to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: Our hot summer heat can stress chives if they don't get enough water. While our low-to-moderate humidity helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases, it also means the soil dries out faster. Variable rainfall means you can't always rely on Mother Nature to provide consistent moisture.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Great Plains garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives deter carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow better near chives, which repel aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives' ability to deter black spot. Grapes also appreciate the pest-repelling properties of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green or peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes. This is especially important to consider given our variable growing season, where maximizing growth is key.