Chives in Zone 6A — Southeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're so easy to snip fresh, right outside your door. Plus, those pretty purple flowers are a welcome sight in the spring.

Our hot and humid summers can bring challenges, but chives are surprisingly resilient when given the right conditions. With a long growing season of around 198 days, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy them. Just be mindful of disease pressure.

Starting chives indoors isn't always necessary here in the Southeast, given our long growing season, but it can give you a head start. If you want to get a jump, sow seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot. A heat mat can help. Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil moist without overdoing it. With our moderate springs, a head start can mean earlier harvests.

Transplant your chives outdoors from late March through late April, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space them about 8-12 inches apart to give them room to clump up. It's often easier to buy established starts from a local nursery or divide existing clumps from a friend's garden — much quicker than starting from seed! Keep an eye on the weather forecast for any late-season cold snaps.

Direct sowing chives is certainly an option here in the Southeast, and you can sow seeds from mid March through late July. However, be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so patience is key.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and adding some compost. Make sure the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Again, divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive in our Southeast climate. They're actually more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs, but they still don't like to sit in soggy soil.

During our hot and humid summers, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep—if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure your soil drains well. A light layer of mulch can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, just be sure to leave space around the base of the plant to improve air circulation.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early June through early November here in the Southeast. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall before harvesting.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth, so you can harvest continuously throughout the growing season. As our first frost approaches in late October, you can cut back the entire plant to encourage one last flush of growth before winter.

Chives are generally easy to grow, but here are a few potential problems to watch out for in the Southeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies are attracted to the scent of onions and other alliums. They lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops regularly.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Rust fungi thrive in warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves, which we often have in the Southeast. The spores spread via wind.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves promptly. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation around your plants by spacing them properly. You can also apply sulfur or copper fungicide, but prevention is key. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate your crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and mushy, decaying bulbs.
• What causes it: Poorly drained soil and excessive moisture can lead to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant chives in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Add compost or other organic matter to improve drainage.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Make sure to provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to keep your chives healthy.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in your Southeast garden. They deter aphids and Japanese beetles, which can be a real nuisance around here.

Good companions include carrots (chives deter carrot root flies), tomatoes (they improve tomato flavor and repel pests), roses (they help prevent black spot), and grapes (they deter certain grape pests). Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth.