Chives in Zone 7B — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild oniony flavor complements so many dishes, and they're incredibly versatile – snipped fresh into salads, scrambled eggs, or as a garnish for soups. Plus, the satisfaction of harvesting fresh herbs from your own backyard, especially after our overcast spring days, is hard to beat.

While we may struggle with heat-loving plants in our mild summers, Chives thrive in our climate. They're hardy and easy to grow, fitting well within our 193-day growing season. Timing is key, but with a little planning, you'll be enjoying fresh chives for months.

Starting chives indoors isn't strictly necessary in our region, but it can give you a head start, especially if you're eager for an early harvest. Begin in late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm (a heat mat helps) and provide plenty of light, either from a sunny windowsill or a grow light. Bottom watering is an excellent way to keep the soil consistently moist without overwatering, which can be a problem in our slow-warming springs. Remember, patience is key as our spring weather can be unpredictable.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors in early to late April. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents shock from our temperature swings.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space the seedlings 8-12 inches apart. While starting from seed is rewarding, keep in mind that buying established starts or dividing existing clumps will get you to harvest much faster.

Direct sowing chives is another option, particularly if you're not in a rush. Sow seeds from mid March through late July. Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost to improve drainage.

Chives prefer soil temperatures around 60-70°F for germination, so waiting until the soil warms up a bit in late spring is best. Sow seeds 8-12 inches apart. Be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so don't be discouraged if you don't see immediate results. Divisions or starts are definitely faster.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially during our dry summer months. Unlike some other herbs that prefer drier conditions, chives are more tolerant of moisture. However, they still don't like soggy soil.

During the spring and fall, when we typically get more rain, you may only need to supplement watering once a week, if at all. In the drier summer months, increase watering to two to three times per week, providing about an inch of water each time. Use the finger test: stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead to prevent fungal diseases, which can be exacerbated by our dry-summer humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to bulb rot. A light layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is especially helpful during our drier periods.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early June through early November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Harvest regularly throughout the growing season to prevent the chives from flowering, as this can reduce leaf production. As the first frost approaches in late October, you can cut the chives back to a few inches above the ground. They'll often regrow in spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Chives are generally easy to grow, but here are a few common problems you might encounter in the Pacific Northwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and feed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs with a foul odor. Yellowing or wilting leaves.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates conditions favorable for fungal and bacterial pathogens that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by amending the soil with compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering, especially during wet springs.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: While late blight isn't a direct issue for chives, our wet springs can create conditions that favor bulb rot, so good drainage is essential. Our mild summers generally don't cause heat stress in chives, but consistent watering is still important during our dry spells. Slugs can sometimes be a nuisance, especially on young plants, so use appropriate slug control methods.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives' scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also benefit, as chives can repel aphids and other pests that commonly attack tomatoes.

Roses thrive near chives as the chives help to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes are also good companions, as chives can help to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes.