Chives in Zone 9A — Desert Southwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our climate. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers attract pollinators, making your garden even more vibrant.

Don't let the extreme heat intimidate you. With strategic timing around our two growing seasons and a little extra attention to watering, you can enjoy a steady supply of fresh chives for most of our 298-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors in our region is definitely an option, but it's not always necessary. It can give you a head start, especially if you're eager for an early spring harvest. Start seeds indoors from late November through late December, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist by bottom watering (set the tray in water so the soil wicks it up), and provide a warm location with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or grow lights work well. Remember our spring can come early, so be ready to move them out when temperatures allow.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors from early February through early March. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This will help them adjust to the intense Desert Southwest sun and temperature swings.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. While starting from seed is rewarding, consider that buying established starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is much faster and easier.

Direct sowing chives is simple and can be done from mid January through early September. Prepare a well-draining seedbed in an area that receives full sun to partial shade. Ensure the soil temperature is consistently above 50°F for best germination.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until seedlings emerge. Keep in mind that chives can be slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or starts will give you faster results.

Watering is key to summer survival for chives in our Desert Southwest climate. While they need consistent moisture, avoid soggy conditions that can lead to bulb rot. During the cooler months, you can often rely on monsoon moisture, but you'll still need to supplement.

A good rule of thumb is to water deeply when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch – use the "finger test" to check. In the heat of summer, this might mean watering every other day, providing about 1 inch of water each time. In spring and fall, you can likely reduce watering to once or twice a week. Water at the base of the plants to avoid creating humid conditions around the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases.

Watch for signs of underwatering, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and mushy bulbs. A layer of organic mulch, like shredded leaves or compost, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, but avoid piling it directly against the stems.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early April through mid December, roughly 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. These are mature enough to harvest.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing. Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, as flowering can reduce leaf production.

As the first frost approaches in early December, give your chives a final haircut. They'll go dormant during the coldest months and return with renewed vigor in the spring. Every three years or so, divide the clumps to maintain healthy growth and prevent overcrowding.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Desert Southwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The larvae then burrow into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial nematodes in the soil to prey on the larvae.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and soft, mushy bulbs with a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poorly draining soil create conditions that favor fungal and bacterial pathogens that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-draining soil. Water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Avoid overwatering, especially during periods of heavy monsoon rainfall.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat and intense sun can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Arid humidity means you must water at the base. Monsoon rainfall can lead to bulb rot if drainage is poor. Choose a location with afternoon shade and well-draining soil to help your chives thrive.

Companion planting can help your chives thrive in the Desert Southwest. Carrots benefit from chives because the onion-like scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also benefit, as chives can repel aphids and other pests that attack tomato plants.

Roses appreciate chives planted nearby as they deter aphids and black spot. Grapes benefit because chives can help deter Japanese beetles, which can damage grapevines. Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes.