Chives in Zone 9B — Florida

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Florida garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow here. Plus, the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs from your own backyard, even in "winter," is hard to beat.

Sure, Florida gardening has its challenges – humidity, nematodes, and the occasional hurricane. But with a little planning and the right timing, you can enjoy a thriving patch of chives nearly year-round in our 344-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors is an option, but honestly, in our climate, it's usually not necessary. If you want a head start, begin in early to late November, about eight weeks before you'd like to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, provide warmth, and make sure they get plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light.

Bottom watering is helpful to keep the soil consistently moist without disturbing the tiny seedlings. Remember, our spring is reversed, so you're starting these indoors during what feels like the tail end of the growing season up north.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early January through early February. Before you do, harden them off for about a week by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This prevents transplant shock. Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil.

Keep an eye on the weather; even in January, we can get some unexpected temperature swings. If a cold snap threatens, be prepared to cover your young plants. Buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to establish a chives patch than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely possible here in Florida, and it can be done from late December through late September. Prepare your soil well, ensuring it's loose and free of weeds. Chives seeds need a soil temperature of around 60-70°F to germinate, so keep that in mind. Sow seeds 8-12 inches apart.

Be patient; chives are slow to establish from seed. Keep the soil consistently moist. While direct sowing is easy, you'll get a quicker harvest if you opt for divisions or purchased starts instead.

Watering is key to happy chives, especially in Florida's climate. While they need consistent moisture, they also don't like to sit in soggy soil. During our drier months, from late fall through early spring, aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

The "finger test" is your best friend: stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. During our wet summer months, you might not need to water at all, unless we're experiencing a dry spell.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid getting the foliage wet, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. A layer of mulch, like pine straw or wood chips, helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent rot.

You can expect your first chives harvest from mid-March through early January, about 80 days after planting from seed. The leaves are ready to harvest when they're at least 6 inches tall. Use scissors to snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base. This encourages new growth.

Harvesting regularly keeps the plant productive. Just cut what you need, and the chives will keep producing more. As the first frost approaches in late December, don't worry too much! Chives are hardy and will likely survive our mild winters. You can still harvest them throughout the cooler months. Every 3 years or so, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in Florida:

• Onion Fly
• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs and roots.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs. This is more common in poorly drained soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Improve soil drainage.
• Rust
• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.
• Bulb Rot in Wet Soil
• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Fungal or bacterial pathogens thrive in waterlogged soil, leading to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage. Avoid overwatering. Plant in raised beds if your soil is heavy clay. Remove and destroy affected plants.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases. Good air circulation and careful watering are essential for keeping your chives healthy. Also, our sandy soil doesn't hold moisture well, so regular watering is crucial during dry periods.

Chives make great companions for several plants in your Florida garden. Carrots benefit because chives deter carrot root flies. Tomatoes also thrive near chives, as they repel aphids and spider mites. Roses benefit from chives’ ability to repel aphids. Grapes also enjoy having chives nearby, as they help deter Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes. In our Florida gardens, companion planting can really give your plants an edge against pests and diseases, especially during the challenging summer months.