Collard Greens in Zone 7B — Texas

Collard greens are a Southern staple, and they thrive in our Texas gardens. Their slightly bitter, earthy flavor is fantastic braised, sauteed, or even added to soups. Plus, you can't beat the satisfaction of harvesting your own greens well into the fall, long after the Texas heat has knocked out other crops.

Our unpredictable weather can be a challenge, but collards are surprisingly resilient. With a little planning, you can enjoy a long harvest window thanks to our 255-day growing season. The key is timing your planting to avoid the worst of the summer heat.

Starting collard greens indoors gives you a head start, especially if you're aiming for that early spring harvest. Start seeds indoors in early to late February, about four weeks before you plan to transplant. This is especially helpful if we get one of those early warm spells.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm and provide plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or grow light works great. Water from the bottom by setting the tray in a shallow dish of water, that way the seedlings don't get knocked over.

Given our early spring, indoor starting is not essential, but it can give you a jump on the season.

Transplant your collard green seedlings outdoors from early March through early April. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Texas sunshine and wind.

Space your plants 18-24 inches apart to give them plenty of room to grow. Keep an eye on the weather forecast. If a late freeze is predicted, be ready to cover your young plants.

Direct sowing collard greens is a simple and effective method, especially for later harvests. Sow seeds directly into the garden from late February through late August. The advantage is that you avoid transplant shock, but you also need to keep a close eye on the soil moisture, especially during those hot months.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost. Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate. Thin seedlings to 18-24 inches apart once they have a few true leaves.

Collard greens need consistent moisture to produce tender, flavorful leaves, but they don't like soggy soil. During the spring and fall, when temperatures are milder, water deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1-1.5 inches of water each time.

During the brutal Texas heat of summer, you'll likely need to water more frequently, possibly every other day, especially if rainfall is scarce. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our variable humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves, while yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering. Mulching around your plants with straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is a must in our climate.

You can expect your first harvest of collard greens from early May through late November, depending on when you planted. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are 10-12 inches long.

Harvest the lower, outer leaves first, leaving the top rosette to continue growing. This allows for a continuous harvest throughout the season. The flavor of collard greens actually sweetens after a light frost, so don't be afraid to leave them in the garden as the weather cools down in late fall.

As the first frost approaches in mid- November, harvest any remaining large leaves. You can blanch and freeze them for later use, or enjoy them fresh in your favorite Southern recipes.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with collard greens in Texas:

Cabbage Worms

• What it looks like: Smooth green caterpillars chewing irregular holes in leaves. You'll also see dark green droppings and white butterflies fluttering around.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of those innocent-looking white cabbage butterflies. They love brassicas, and we get multiple generations during our long growing season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray is very effective. You can also use floating row covers to prevent the butterflies from laying eggs. Handpicking caterpillars works too, and interplanting with aromatic herbs like thyme and sage can help deter them.

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny green, black, or white insects on stems and leaf undersides. You might also see sticky honeydew residue and curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Aphids are sap-sucking insects that reproduce rapidly, especially in warm weather. Ants often farm them for the honeydew, so look out for ant activity.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water can knock them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings, which are natural predators. Insecticidal soap works well for heavy infestations.

Cabbage Loopers

• What it looks like:

Cabbage loopers are pale green caterpillars with white stripes, they feed on leaves and leave large, ragged holes.

• What causes it:

The cabbage looper is a common pest of cabbage and related cole crops.

• How to fix/prevent it:

You can use floating row covers to prevent the moths from laying eggs on your plants. If you find loopers on your plants, you can handpick them off or use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a biological insecticide that is effective against caterpillars.

Downy Mildew

• What it looks like: Yellow patches on leaf tops with fuzzy gray-purple growth on undersides. Leaves will brown and die from the bottom up.
• What causes it: This is a fungal disease that thrives in cool, humid conditions. It spreads via wind-carried spores.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves immediately. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Water at the base, never overhead. Copper-based fungicides can help prevent it.

Texas Specific Challenges: The hot-to-extreme heat can stress collard greens, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Variable humidity and unpredictable rainfall can also create favorable conditions for fungal problems. Consistent monitoring and proactive measures are key to success. And don't forget to watch out for fire ants when you're working in the garden!

Good companion plants for collard greens include onions and garlic, which deter pests with their strong scent. Beets and potatoes are also good companions as they don't compete for the same nutrients. Dill attracts beneficial insects that prey on pests like aphids and cabbage worms.

Avoid planting collard greens near strawberries or tomatoes. Strawberries can attract slugs that will also feed on your collards, and tomatoes can harbor diseases that can spread to your greens.