Better Boy Tomato in Zone 3A — Mountain West

Better Boy Tomato is a winner for us Mountain gardeners because it delivers that classic tomato taste we crave, plus it's incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Think juicy slices on sandwiches, rich sauces, and perfect canning tomatoes. The satisfaction of harvesting armfuls of ripe, red fruit after our short growing season is hard to beat.

High altitude gardening definitely has its quirks, but don't let our short 96-day season scare you off. With careful timing and a little extra attention, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes. We'll guide you through the steps to make it happen.

Starting your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors is key in our Zone 3A climate. You'll want to sow those seeds indoors from late April through mid May, roughly six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives them a head start and makes the most of our limited growing season.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist, and consider bottom watering to avoid damping off. Place the trays in a warm spot, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or grow lights work well. Remember, spring here in the mountains can be slow to warm up, so be patient.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors in mid to late June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense sun and cooler nights we experience.

Plant seedlings 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Our weather can still be unpredictable at transplant time, so keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to cover your plants if a late frost threatens.

Consistent watering is critical for Better Boy Tomatoes, especially in our dry Mountain climate. These tomatoes are thirsty and not drought-tolerant, so don't let them dry out completely. Irregular watering can lead to blossom end rot and cracking, so maintaining even soil moisture is key.

During the hottest part of summer, you'll likely need to water deeply several times a week. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, delivered slowly at the base of the plant. Overhead watering can increase the risk of foliar diseases, even with the low humidity, so try to avoid it.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, hard soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A layer of mulch around your tomato plants helps conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially important with our intense sun and cool nights.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. These vigorous vines need sturdy support to keep them off the ground and prevent the fruit from rotting. Cages or stakes both work well, but choose something strong enough to handle the weight of a fully loaded plant.

Install your support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. For staking, drive a sturdy stake into the ground a few inches from the plant and gently tie the main stem to the stake as it grows. Cages offer more overall support and can be easier to manage, especially if you're growing multiple plants.

Pruning your Better Boy Tomatoes can improve air circulation and encourage larger, earlier fruit. The standard approach is to remove suckers, which are the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches. Pinch them off when they're small to redirect the plant's energy into fruit production.

You can also prune the lower leaves that touch the ground to prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing onto the plant. As the end of the season approaches (early September for us), you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes in late August through early September, about 72 days after transplanting. Look for large, red fruit with a slight give when gently squeezed. The strong disease resistance of this hybrid means you should have a reliable harvest, even if the weather throws us a curveball.

To harvest, gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing more fruit. As the first frost approaches, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen on a windowsill. They might not taste quite as good as vine-ripened tomatoes, but they're still a treat!

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in our Mountain climate:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. Our dry climate and intense sun can create drought/flood cycles in the soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently! Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes. Dark droppings on leaves below.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths lay eggs on tomato plants. The caterpillars are voracious eaters.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they don't bite). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic. Leave any hornworms with white cocoons on them—those are parasitic wasp eggs!
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves first, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Spreads via soil splash onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide slows spread. Rotate crops yearly.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, low humidity, and dry rainfall all play a role in tomato health. The intense sun can stress plants if they're not properly watered, and the dry air can exacerbate blossom end rot and cracking. However, the low humidity also means we have less disease pressure than other regions.

Companion planting can give your Better Boy Tomatoes a boost in our Mountain gardens. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests, plus it improves the flavor of your tomatoes. Carrots and parsley attract beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil-borne pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near your tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can also compete with tomatoes for nutrients and sunlight, especially in our short growing season.