Better Boy Tomato in Zone 7A — Pacific Northwest

Better Boy Tomato is a fantastic choice for Pacific Northwest gardens. Its classic tomato flavor is perfect for slicing, sauces, and canning, and you'll find a homegrown tomato from your own garden tastes better than anything from the store. Getting those first ripe tomatoes from your own garden is incredibly satisfying.

While we may not have the long, scorching summers of other regions, our mild summers and cool nights actually contribute to better tomato flavor. Our 183-day growing season is long enough to get a great harvest of Better Boys if you start your plants indoors and time things right. We might face challenges like cool soil and late blight, but with a little planning, you can absolutely enjoy delicious homegrown tomatoes.

Starting Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors from mid-March through early April gives them a head start before transplanting. This is essential in the PNW, since our springs can be slow to warm up. You have about a 3-week window.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Bottom watering is a great technique – place the tray in a shallow container of water and let the soil absorb it from the bottom. Place the trays in a warm spot, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light with grow lights. Overcast spring days are common in the PNW, so supplemental light is key for strong seedlings.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors from early May through early June, after the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over about a week. This will help them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and space the plants 24-36 inches apart. Our wet springs can lead to fungal diseases, so good air circulation is important. Be prepared to cover your young plants if a late cold snap is predicted.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially during our dry summer months. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water deeply at the base of the plant, avoiding overhead watering which can promote fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions. Mulching around the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. In the PNW, keeping the soil consistently moist can be a balancing act, but consistent watering is key to avoiding blossom end rot and cracking.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Monitor your plants closely and adjust your watering schedule as needed.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. They need strong support to handle their vigorous growth and heavy fruit. Cages or stakes both work well, but sturdy cages are often the easiest option.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will keep the plant upright and prevent the fruit from touching the soil.

Pruning Better Boy Tomatoes can improve airflow and fruit size. Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches. Pinch these off when they're small to direct the plant's energy into fruit production.

You can also remove the lower leaves that touch the soil to prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing onto the plant. Towards the end of the season, around late September, you can top the plant (cut off the top) to encourage the remaining fruit to ripen before our first frost arrives in mid- October.

You can generally expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest from mid-July through early September in the PNW. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they're a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed. The cool nights we get in the late summer and early fall help to sweeten the flavor.

Gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the ripening process.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in the PNW:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato, usually on the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leading to calcium deficiency. Our dry summers followed by periods of heavy rain can create this problem.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently and deeply, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either in circles around the stem or radiating out from it.
• What causes it: Rapid changes in soil moisture, often after heavy rain following a dry period. The fruit expands faster than the skin can handle.
• How to fix/prevent it: Maintain consistent watering. Mulch to keep soil moisture even. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might find large green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings on the leaves.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths, and they can defoliate a tomato plant quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms (they're easy to spot once you know what to look for). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is also effective.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on the lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves turn yellow and drop off.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. It spreads through soil splash.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Improve air circulation through pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight can be a major issue in our region, but Better Boy's disease resistance helps. Cool soil in spring can slow growth, so be patient and wait for the soil to warm up before transplanting. Our dry summer months require consistent watering, but our mild heat and dry-summer humidity actually reduce the risk of some other tomato problems. Slugs can be a pest, especially on young plants, so use slug bait or traps as needed.

Good companions for Better Boy Tomatoes in the PNW include:

• Basil: Repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies, and is said to improve tomato flavor. It thrives in similar conditions.
• Carrots: Improve soil aeration and don't compete for nutrients.
• Parsley: Attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests.
• French Marigolds: Repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting tomatoes near:

• Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale): Can inhibit tomato growth.
• Fennel: Inhibits the growth of many plants.
• Corn: Attracts tomato pests like corn earworms.