Better Boy Tomato in Zone 9A — Desert Southwest

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason. Its fantastic flavor, meaty texture, and versatility in the kitchen make it a must-grow for Desert Southwest gardeners. There's nothing like the satisfaction of slicing into a sun-ripened Better Boy you've grown yourself, especially after coddling it through our extreme heat.

Our desert climate presents unique challenges, but with careful timing, consistent watering, and a little shade when necessary, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes. Our long, 298-day growing season gives you a great head start.

Start your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors from mid January through early February, about six weeks before the last expected frost. This gives your seedlings a strong start before the heat kicks in. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm (around 70-75°F) and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders. Water gently from the bottom to avoid damping off and encourage strong root growth. This early start will help you beat the summer heat.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors from early to late March, after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them acclimate to the sun and wind.

Space your plants 24-36 inches apart in well-draining soil. Be mindful of those late cold snaps we sometimes get in March; protect your young plants with frost cloth if needed.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially in our arid Desert Southwest climate. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. During the cooler spring months, you might only need to water a couple of times a week.

Once the extreme heat hits, you'll likely need to water deeply every day or every other day. Use the finger test – if the top two inches of soil are dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, adjusting based on rainfall and temperatures.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even though our humidity is low. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and blossom end rot. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch will help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. These vigorous vines need sturdy support to handle the weight of those big tomatoes. A tall tomato cage or strong stakes work best.

Install your chosen support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently train the vines to grow up the support, tying them loosely with twine if needed.

Pruning your Better Boy Tomato helps improve air circulation and fruit production. Focus on removing suckers, which are the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches. Removing these directs the plant's energy into fruit production.

Also, prune the lower leaves that touch the soil to prevent soil-borne diseases. Prune regularly throughout the growing season. As the first frost approaches in early December, you can pinch off new blossoms to encourage the plant to ripen existing fruit.

You can expect your first Better Boy Tomato harvest from mid May through late June, about 72 days after transplanting. Look for large, red fruit that is slightly soft to the touch. The tomato should easily detach from the vine when gently twisted.

Harvest regularly to encourage continued production. If frost threatens in late fall, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and ripen them indoors in a paper bag. The strong disease resistance of Better Boy makes for a reliable harvest.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in the Desert Southwest:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. The extreme heat and arid conditions exacerbate this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently and deeply, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Fluctuations in soil moisture, often caused by heavy monsoon moisture after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might find large green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly if left unchecked.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them off the plants. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm conditions and spreads via soil splash.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat of our summers can stress tomato plants, making them more susceptible to problems. Our arid climate requires diligent watering to prevent blossom end rot and cracking. While the monsoon moisture can be a blessing, it can also lead to fungal diseases if you're not careful.

Good companions for Better Boy Tomatoes in the Desert Southwest include basil, carrots, parsley, and French marigolds. Basil repels tomato hornworms and improves tomato flavor. Carrots loosen the soil and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects. French marigolds repel nematodes and other pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they compete for nutrients. Also, avoid fennel, which inhibits tomato growth, and corn, which attracts tomato pests like corn earworms.