Early Girl Tomato in Zone 7A — Mountain West

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for the Mountain West gardener. Its quick maturity means you can enjoy homegrown tomatoes even with our shorter growing season and cool nights. Plus, the flavor is exceptional – the intense sunlight and cool nights at altitude really concentrate the sugars.

We know high altitude gardening presents unique challenges. The intense UV, alkaline soil, and potential for hail can make warm-season crops tricky. But with careful timing and the right strategies, you can absolutely succeed with Early Girl Tomato within our 173-day growing season.

Start your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from mid-March through early April. This gives you about six weeks to get a head start before transplanting. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays warm (around 70-75°F) and provide plenty of light. A grow light works great, especially since our spring weather can be unpredictable. Water from the bottom by setting the tray in a shallow dish of water for a few minutes. This encourages strong root growth and prevents damping off, which can be a problem in our cool spring conditions.

Remember, our spring gets a late start, so don't be tempted to rush things. A little patience now pays off later.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from early May through mid-June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, you'll need to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, increasing the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Even in May, we can still get unexpected cold snaps, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if frost threatens. Our intense sun can also stress young transplants, so provide some temporary shade for the first few days if needed.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially in our dry Mountain West climate. They aren't drought-tolerant, so don't let them dry out completely. A good rule of thumb is to water deeply once or twice a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time.

Use the "finger test" to check the soil moisture. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Because our humidity is so low, watering at the base of the plant is usually best. Overhead watering can lead to fungal issues in more humid climates, but here, it's less of a concern.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and potentially root rot. Mulching around your tomato plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially important given our temperature swings and intense sun.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, which means they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. They need support to keep the vines off the ground and prevent the fruit from rotting. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install your support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This helps keep the plant upright and allows for better air circulation, which reduces the risk of disease.

Pruning your Early Girl Tomatoes can help them ripen faster and produce more fruit. Focus on removing the suckers that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches. These suckers steal energy from the plant and can create a crowded, bushy plant.

Also, remove the lower leaves that touch the soil to prevent disease. Start pruning a few weeks after transplanting and continue throughout the season. As our first frost approaches around early October, you can also prune the top of the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from late June through late August. This early maturity is a huge advantage in our short-season Mountain West climate! The tomatoes are ready to harvest when they turn a deep red color and are slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, out of direct sunlight.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Early Girl Tomatoes in the Mountain West:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. The dry/wet cycles common in our climate disrupt calcium uptake.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm conditions. Soil splash spreads it onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation. Rotate crops yearly.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths that lay eggs on tomato plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms. Bt spray is effective and organic.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our intense sun can exacerbate blossom end rot by stressing the plants, and our alkaline soil can sometimes hinder nutrient uptake. The dry air and low rainfall mean consistent watering is absolutely critical. Hail can also damage fruit and foliage, so consider using row covers or netting if hail is forecast.

Companion planting can really benefit your Early Girl Tomatoes. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests. Carrots improve the soil and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds also repel nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can shade tomatoes and compete for nutrients.