Early Girl Tomato in Zone 7A — Pacific Northwest

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for the Pacific Northwest gardener who wants that homegrown tomato flavor without waiting all summer. Its relatively short maturity time means you can enjoy delicious, medium-sized tomatoes even with our mild summers and cool nights, perfect for fresh eating, salads, or a quick sauce. The taste is classic tomato – slightly acidic and sweet, enhanced by our cool nights.

While we may not have the blazing heat of other regions, don't let that deter you. Early Girl is bred to produce quickly, fitting nicely into our 183-day growing season. Careful timing and a little extra attention will reward you with a bountiful harvest before the first frost arrives in mid- October.

Starting Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors in mid-March through early April gives them a head start against our cool spring soil. Sow seeds about 1/4 inch deep in seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix. A heat mat underneath will help speed up germination, as our springs can be slow to warm.

Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Bottom watering is your friend here – set the tray in a shallow container of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. This prevents damping-off disease and encourages strong root growth. Place the seedlings under grow lights, as our overcast spring days often don't provide enough sunlight.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors in early May through mid June, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade and increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, spacing the plants 24-36 inches apart. Even in May, our weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on the forecast. If a late frost is predicted, cover the young plants with blankets or row covers.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture to produce a good crop, but overwatering is a common mistake, especially in our climate. During the wet springs, you may not need to water much at all. Once our dry summer months arrive, you'll need to water more regularly.

Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall and temperature. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our dry-summer humidity.

Underwatering can cause blossom end rot (more on that later), while overwatering can lead to root rot and other problems. Drooping leaves can be a sign of either, so check the soil moisture first. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit until frost. They need support to keep the heavy vines off the ground and prevent the fruit from rotting.

A standard 5-foot tomato cage or sturdy stakes work well. Install the support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Early Girl Tomatoes can improve air circulation and encourage earlier ripening, which is especially important in our climate. Focus on removing suckers, which are the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and a branch.

Pinch off the suckers when they're small, before they get too big. Also, remove any yellowing or diseased leaves, especially near the bottom of the plant. As the end of the season approaches in late September through mid- October, you can top the plant by cutting off the growing tip. This will encourage the remaining tomatoes to ripen before frost.

You can expect your first Early Girl Tomatoes to ripen in late June through late August, about 50 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready to harvest when they turn a deep red color and are slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist the tomato off the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in mid- October, harvest any remaining green tomatoes.

Green tomatoes will ripen indoors if stored in a cool, dark place, ideally with an apple or banana to speed up the process. A sunny windowsill also works.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Early Girl Tomatoes in the Pacific Northwest:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, leading to calcium deficiency. Our wet springs followed by dry summers can create these fluctuations.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Soil splash spreads the spores.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation by spacing plants and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large green caterpillars with white stripes. Dark droppings on leaves.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt spray is effective and organic. Leave any hornworms with white cocoons on them – they're being parasitized by beneficial wasps!

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from it.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight can be a serious issue in some years, particularly with our dry-summer humidity. Keep an eye out for dark, water-soaked lesions on leaves and stems. Remove and destroy affected plants immediately. Also, our cool soil in spring can slow growth, so be patient and don't rush to transplant too early. Remember that our mild heat means you need to stay on top of watering and provide consistent conditions for best results. Slugs can be a problem, especially early in the season, so use slug bait or other control methods.

Good companions for Early Girl Tomatoes in the Pacific Northwest include basil, which is said to improve tomato flavor and repel pests. Carrots loosen the soil and can deter some soil-borne pests. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds repel nematodes and other harmful insects.

Avoid planting tomatoes near brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli), as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients. These considerations are important to maximize your yields in our relatively short growing season.