Chives in Zone 10B — Florida

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Florida garden, offering a mild onion flavor that elevates everything from salads to soups. Here in Zone 10B, you can snip fresh chives almost year-round, adding a touch of homegrown goodness to your meals. Plus, their pretty purple flowers attract pollinators to your garden.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and we know our summer is the slow season. But don't worry, you can absolutely grow chives here! With our long, 360-day growing season, proper timing helps us dodge the worst of the heat and humidity, so you can enjoy a thriving chive patch.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, especially if you want a sizable clump ready for spring. You have about a 3-week window from mid October through early November to sow your seeds indoors. This gives them about 8 weeks to grow before transplanting.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist – bottom watering is a great way to prevent damping off. Place them in a warm spot with plenty of light, and you'll see sprouts in no time. Remember, our "spring" character is reversed, so starting now means you're prepping for our prime growing season.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from late December through mid January. This lets them get established before the weather warms up too much. Before you plant, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. Our weather can still be a bit unpredictable at this time of year, so keep an eye on the forecast and protect your young plants from any unexpected cold snaps. Remember, buying starts or dividing existing clumps is much faster than growing from seed.

Direct sowing is definitely an option for chives in Florida, and you can do it from early December through late September. However, keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed. This means you'll be waiting a while for a substantial harvest.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and adding compost. Chives prefer a soil temperature of around 60-70°F for germination. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. For spacing, thin seedlings to 8-12 inches apart. Again, divisions or starts are much faster if you want chives quickly.

Chives need moderate, consistent moisture, especially in our Florida climate. They're more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs, but soggy soil is a no-no. During our drier fall and spring months, aim for about 1 inch of water per week.

The "finger test" is your best friend. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. In the wet-summer months, you might not need to water at all, as our rainfall (50-65 inches annually) usually takes care of it. However, even with all the rain, check the soil moisture because the position of your chives might not benefit from all the rain.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially bulb rot. A layer of mulch will help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from late February through early January, depending on when you planted. The leaves are ready to harvest when they're at least 6 inches tall. Cut the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

Harvesting regularly encourages new growth, so don't be shy about snipping them. To harvest, use sharp scissors or garden shears to cut the leaves cleanly. This prevents damaging the plant. As the first frost approaches in late December, continue to harvest as needed. Every 3 years, divide clumps to rejuvenate plants.

Even in our sunny paradise, chives can face a few challenges. Here are some common problems and how to deal with them:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the roots and bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs. This is more prevalent during warmer months.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Apply beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. Our humidity is a big factor.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Excessive moisture in the soil, especially during our rainy season, creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage by adding organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds or containers.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-summer rainfall create a perfect storm for fungal diseases and bulb rot. Monitor your plants closely, especially during the rainy season, and take preventative measures to ensure their health.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Florida garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives deter carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow better near chives because chives repel aphids and other pests that attack tomatoes. Roses also love chives, as they help to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes also benefit from the pest-repelling qualities of chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes. So, keep your chives away from your bean and pea patch for the best results.