Chives in Zone 5A — Mountain West

Chives are a must-have in any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to soups, and they're incredibly easy to grow, even at high altitude. Plus, the bright green color is a welcome sight in our often-arid landscape, and those purple flowers are just gorgeous.

Our short growing season and intense sun can be a challenge, but Chives are surprisingly resilient. With a little planning, you can enjoy fresh Chives from early July all the way until the first frost hits in late September. That 138-day growing season is plenty of time for these hardy herbs to thrive.

Starting Chives indoors is an option, especially if you want a head start on the season. Begin in late February through mid March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives them a good jump before our late springs arrive.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them consistently moist by bottom watering. Place the trays in a warm location, and provide supplemental light, since our early spring sunlight can still be weak. Remember, our cool nights even in spring can slow germination, so warmth is key.

Transplanting Chives outdoors should happen in late April through late May. Before you move them permanently, harden them off by gradually exposing them to the outdoors for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense sun and cooler temperatures.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in well-draining soil. While starting from seed is rewarding, buying established starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving patch of Chives. Keep an eye on the weather; late spring frosts are always a possibility in the mountains.

Direct sowing Chives is definitely possible, but be patient—they're slow to establish from seed. Sow the seeds mid April through late June, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and make sure the soil is well-draining.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and mixing in some compost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Remember, it can take a few weeks for the seeds to germinate, and the plants will be small at first. Divisions or purchased starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged. In our dry Mountain West climate, that means paying close attention to their watering needs, especially during the hottest part of the summer. Aim for moderate, consistent watering.

During the peak of summer (typically July and August), you'll likely need to water your Chives about 1-2 inches per week, depending on rainfall. Use the "finger test"—stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid getting the foliage wet, which can encourage fungal diseases, even with our low humidity.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to yellowing and potentially bulb rot. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful given our intense sun. Remember, our moderate-at-altitude summer heat and dry air mean consistent watering is crucial for healthy Chives.

You can expect your first harvest of Chives from early July through early October. The ideal time to harvest is when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing throughout the season. Harvest regularly to prevent the plants from flowering, unless you want to enjoy the blooms (they're edible too!). As the first frost approaches in late September, give your Chives a good trim. You can even pot up a clump and bring it indoors to enjoy fresh Chives throughout the winter.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Consider using beneficial nematodes to control the larvae in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and mushy, rotting bulbs.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil can lead to fungal or bacterial infections that cause the bulbs to rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant Chives in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve drainage by adding compost or other organic matter to the soil.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat and low humidity generally help keep fungal diseases at bay, but our intense sun can stress plants if they're not properly watered. Be vigilant about watering and provide some afternoon shade if needed.

Chives are great companions for many plants in the Mountain West garden. They deter pests like aphids and Japanese beetles, benefiting plants like carrots and tomatoes. Plant them near roses to help prevent black spot. Chives also reportedly improve the flavor of grapes.

Avoid planting Chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth. Remember, companion planting is just one tool in your gardening arsenal, but it can be especially helpful in our challenging climate.