Chives in Zone 6A — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to salads, and their cheerful purple blossoms attract pollinators. Growing your own means you'll always have fresh snippings on hand, plus they're surprisingly low-maintenance once established in our mild summer climate.

While we might struggle with heat-loving plants, our long, cool springs and mild summers are perfect for herbs like chives. You can easily fit in a full growing season within our 148 days, as long as you time things right to avoid our cool, wet springs.

Starting chives indoors gives you a jumpstart, but it's not strictly necessary in our climate. If you want the earliest possible harvest, start seeds indoors from late February through mid March, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm (around 70°F) and consistently moist.

Bottom watering is ideal to avoid damping off. Once seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light with a grow light, since we often have overcast spring days here in the PNW. Otherwise, direct sowing or buying starts is usually easier.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from late April through late May, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents shock from our sometimes unpredictable spring weather.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Remember, you can also buy chive starts from local nurseries or divide existing clumps – often a faster route to a productive patch!

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option in the Pacific Northwest, especially if you're not in a rush. Sow seeds from mid April through early July, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Prepare a well-drained seedbed and sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, spacing them 8-12 inches apart.

Keep the soil consistently moist until germination. Be patient, as chives can be slow to establish from seed. If you want quicker results, consider starting with transplants or dividing an existing clump.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive in our Pacific Northwest climate. Although we have dry summer months, they're not particularly drought tolerant, so don't let them dry out completely. Unlike many herbs, they actually prefer a bit more moisture.

During our wet springs, you might not need to water at all, but once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid rust issues, which can be exacerbated by wet foliage and our dry-summer humidity.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to bulb rot. Mulching around your chives with compost or straw helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds – a win-win in our PNW gardens.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early July through mid October, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall and cut them back to about 1-2 inches from the base. Don't worry, they'll grow right back!

Harvesting regularly encourages new growth and keeps your chives productive. Simply snip off what you need with scissors or garden shears. As the first frost approaches in early October, you can either let your chives die back naturally or pot up a clump and bring it indoors for fresh herbs all winter long. You should divide clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are the top three problems you might encounter with chives in your Pacific Northwest garden:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots around the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs, causing damage.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil creates conditions where fungal pathogens thrive, leading to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your chives are planted in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering, especially during our wet springs. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Late blight isn't a direct issue for chives, but our generally wet springs can create conditions that favor fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Make sure to provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to minimize these problems. Slugs can also be a nuisance, so use your preferred slug control method.

Chives are great companions for several plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also help protect tomatoes from spider mites and aphids. Roses benefit from chives' ability to repel aphids and black spot.

Grapes also appreciate chives nearby, as they can deter Japanese beetles. Avoid planting chives near green beans and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.