Chives in Zone 6B — Mountain West

Chives are a must-have in any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor adds a fresh kick to everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow here. Plus, those pretty purple flowers attract pollinators, making your whole garden thrive.

Our high altitude and short growing season can be tricky, but chives are one of the most forgiving plants. With a little planning, you can enjoy fresh chives from mid-summer right up until our first frosts arrive in early October. That 163-day season is plenty of time to get a good harvest.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, especially if you want a large clump quickly. Begin in early to late February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays consistently moist by watering from the bottom to avoid disturbing the tiny seeds. Place them in a warm spot with plenty of light—a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Remember, our spring can be slow to warm up here, so indoor starting can be beneficial.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors in mid April through early May. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to our intense sun and cooler temperatures.

Space the seedlings 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Be prepared for unexpected cold snaps or even late-season snow, which are common in the Mountain West. If a freeze is predicted, cover your young plants with frost blankets. Buying starts or dividing established clumps is much faster than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is straightforward, but they're slow to establish from seed. Sow seeds late March through early July, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Choose a sunny spot and prepare the soil by loosening it and adding some compost.

Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep, spacing them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Remember that divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our dry Mountain West climate. They're more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs, but they still need your attention. Water deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

During the hottest part of summer, when temperatures reach around 85°F, you'll likely need to water about once a week, providing about an inch of water. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about two inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to prevent fungal diseases, which are less common here due to our low humidity but still possible.

In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can reduce watering frequency. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so be cautious. A layer of mulch around your chives will help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can cause the leaves to turn mushy or brown. Adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

You can start harvesting chives about 80 days after planting, typically from mid June through mid October in our region. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

Harvesting regularly encourages new growth. Simply snip off what you need with scissors or garden shears. New growth will emerge continuously throughout the season.

As the first frost approaches in early October, give your chives one last good harvest. You can chop and freeze the chives for use throughout the winter. Consider dividing your clumps every three years to keep them vigorous.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly *What it looks like:* Yellowing or wilting leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant. *What causes it:* Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the roots and bulbs. *How to fix/prevent it:* Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops each year.

Rust *What it looks like:* Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely. *What causes it:* Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. *How to fix/prevent it:* Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil *What it looks like:* Yellowing leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor. *What causes it:* Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to bulb rot. Fungal or bacterial pathogens thrive in these conditions. *How to fix/prevent it:* Ensure your soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. If bulb rot occurs, remove and destroy the affected plants.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: While our low humidity helps prevent many fungal diseases, our intense UV radiation can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Consistent watering and providing some afternoon shade can help mitigate these effects.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in your Mountain West garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also benefit tomatoes by repelling aphids and other pests.

Roses benefit from chives planted nearby, as they help to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes also enjoy the company of chives, which can help to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth.