Chives in Zone 8B — Pacific Northwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to salads, and snipping fresh herbs right outside your door is incredibly satisfying. Plus, those cool nights we get here seem to intensify their flavor.

Our wet springs and mild summers can present a few challenges, but with careful timing, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of chives. Our long 210-day growing season gives you plenty of time to get them established and producing.

Starting chives indoors is an option, but honestly, it's not usually necessary here in the PNW. If you're eager to get a jump start, you can start seeds indoors from mid-January through early February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm (around 70°F) and under grow lights. Bottom watering can help prevent damping off, a common issue with seedlings. Remember, our springs tend to be overcast, so supplemental light is key for strong seedlings.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors from late March through mid-April. Before you plant, be sure to harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot. Keep an eye on the weather; those late-season cool snaps can still happen, so be prepared to cover them if a hard frost is predicted. Honestly, buying starts or dividing an existing clump is often a faster way to get established chives.

Direct sowing chives is definitely possible here, and it's quite easy! Sow seeds directly into the garden from early March through late July.

Make sure the soil is well-worked and the temperature is consistently above 50°F. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially during our dry summer months. Unlike some other herbs that prefer drier conditions, chives are relatively tolerant of moisture.

During our wet springs, you might not need to water them at all, but once the dry summer hits, check the soil regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can help prevent fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so ensure good drainage. A layer of mulch, like composted leaves or bark, can help retain moisture during the dry summer months and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first chives harvest from late May through early November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall and snip them off about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

Regular harvesting encourages new growth, so don't be shy! For continuous production, cut the flower stalks off before they bloom to direct the plant's energy into leaf production.

As the first frost approaches in early November, give your chives a final trim. You can either let them die back naturally or pot up a clump to bring indoors for fresh herbs throughout the winter. Don't forget to divide your chives clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Pacific Northwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The maggots then bore into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a mushy, foul-smelling bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates an environment where fungal pathogens thrive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by planting in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Amend heavy clay soils with compost or other organic matter.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: While our dry summers help reduce the risk of some fungal diseases, our wet springs can create ideal conditions for bulb rot, especially in poorly drained soils. Keep an eye on your plants during those periods and ensure they have adequate drainage.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the strong scent of chives deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also love chives, as they deter aphids and other pests. Roses benefit from chives planted nearby as they help to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes also enjoy the company of chives, as they deter Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth.