Chives in Zone 3A — Mountain West

Chives are a must-have for any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and there's nothing quite like snipping fresh herbs you've grown yourself. Plus, their pretty purple blossoms attract pollinators to your garden, which is always a bonus in our high-altitude environment.

Our short growing season and intense sun can be challenging, but Chives are surprisingly resilient. With a little planning and attention to timing, you can easily enjoy a continuous harvest within our 96-day window.

Starting Chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not always essential. If you're eager for an early harvest or want to ensure success with a larger crop, it's a good option. Begin in mid-March through early April, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and provide consistent warmth and bright light – a grow light is ideal. Water from the bottom to prevent damping off, especially during our characteristically late springs.

Transplant your Chives seedlings outdoors mid-May through early June, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late cold snap or hailstorm can still happen, so be prepared to cover your young plants if necessary. Buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established plants.

Direct sowing Chives is definitely doable, but be patient – they're slow to establish from seed. Sow seeds early May through early June, once the soil has warmed up a bit.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, and keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate. Space plants to their final 8-12 inch spacing. Remember that divisions or purchased starts will give you a quicker return.

Chives need consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged. In our dry Mountain West climate, regular watering is key, especially during the hottest part of the summer.

During the peak of summer, aim for about 1 inch of water per week. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water deeply at the base of the plants to encourage strong root growth and to avoid wetting the foliage, which can invite fungal issues.

In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can reduce watering frequency. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so be mindful of drainage. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can cause the leaves to turn mushy or brown. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature in our intense sun.

You can expect your first harvest of Chives late July through mid September, about 80 days after sowing. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Harvest regularly throughout the growing season to prevent the plant from flowering, which can make the leaves taste bitter.

As the first frost approaches in early September, give your Chives a final trim. You can dry or freeze the harvested leaves for use during the winter months. Divide clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with Chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting, yellowing, or stunted growth. You might find small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The larvae then burrow into the bulbs and feed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects that prey on onion flies.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a soft, mushy bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poor drainage, leading to fungal or bacterial infections.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage in your planting area. Avoid overwatering. Remove and destroy any affected plants.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: While our low humidity generally reduces disease pressure, our intense sun can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Consistent watering and protection from the hottest afternoon sun can help keep your Chives healthy.

Chives make excellent companions for many plants in the Mountain West garden:

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies.
• Tomatoes: Chives are said to improve the flavor of tomatoes and deter pests.
• Roses: Chives help deter aphids and black spot on roses.
• Grapes: Chives can help prevent fungal diseases on grapevines.

Avoid planting Chives near:

• Beans and Peas: Chives can inhibit the growth of beans and peas.